Returning to Venice after a 17-year hiatus felt like a journey through time, both for the city and for her own life. A frequent traveler to Italy for work, Dana was struck by how much had changed since her last visit: she had married, shifted careers, started a business, and had two children. In this conversation, Dana shares her reflections on the city, musing on the experiences that capture its essence and her must-see galleries, bars and restaurants.
Dana wears the Davey Top
I’ve been travelling to Italy annually for work for over a decade, but this was only my second time in Venice. The last time was 17 years ago, and it feels like a lifetime has passed between now and then — I got married, shifted careers, started a business, and had two children. You know, I kind of grew up a little… I love how going back to the place you’ve been before becomes a reference point for how much you’ve changed, not to mention how much a place you’re visiting has changed and, in fact, how much the whole world has changed, too. But perhaps I’m going a little too deep with all this.
We spent about a day and a half exploring Bennale’s must-see flagship venues — Arsenale and Giardini.
Arsenale is an industrial complex of former shipyards with too much incredible art to mention here. Still, some of my favourites included Bouchra Khalili’s The Mapping Journey Project, Lina Bo Bardi-designed displays with art canvases suspended in clear glass, interwoven LED mesh screen video sculptures by WangShui and Latvian artist Amanda Ziemele’s joyous installation of colourful 3D canvases presented as sculptures in space.
Giardini is as much of an architectural experience as it is an art one, with 30 architecturally designed pavilions of various countries, each producing shows as their national representation.
It was incredible to be in Venice the first time the Australian National Pavilion took out the top gong with the Golden Lion award for the Kith and Kin installation by Archie Moore, curated by Ellie Buttrose. Archie spent months chalking his family tree on the walls and ceilings of the pavilion, charting his Kamilaroi and Bigambul relations over 65,000 years of history. A central table in the room depicted records of Aboriginal people’s deaths in custody, with a black reflective pond deliberately separating the viewer and the, symbolising the gap between information and action. I cannot overstate how deeply moved and emotional I felt during our visit. This was also one national pavilion that made our 12-year-old son Luka pause and ask many questions (which is a pretty big deal for a tween boy). Kith and Kin will tour Australia after the Venice Biennale, staring at Brisbane’s GOMA, so please keep an eye out. This is genuinely one exhibition every Australian should see.
My friends also raved about Pierre Huyghe’s Liminal exhibition at Punta della Dogana. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see it myself, as the gallery was closed the day we visited (side note: many cultural venues close in Venice on Mondays and/ or Tuesdays, so make sure you look this up to avoid disappointment).
Anywhere where the hordes of tourists aren’t. Argh! Seriously, Venice has got to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world, but sadly, this means it’s absolutely overrun by holidaymakers. The irony of complaining about this as a non-Venice local isn’t lost on me!
Having said this, what’s truly magical about Venice is that, outside of classic sightseeing (which you simply have to do), the city is so utterly picturesque that following your intuition to wander and get lost in the narrow streets is a sheer joy.
There are, of course, countless remarkable art galleries. I loved visiting the museum gallery Gallerie dell'Accademia, which was recently renovated. The Peggy Guggenheim’s private collection of who’s-who-in-contemporary-art-zoo will make you weep. Palazzo Grassi on the Grand Canal, with its Venetian Classical style remodelled by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, is another must-visit.
Then there are buildings by Venice-born Carlo Scarpa, who is arguably one of the most revered architects of his time (even if you may not be an archi-nerd like me but you’re still someone who actively observes design and architecture, you would’ve quite likely come across his very distinctive visual language or its many contemporary derivatives.) One of Scarpa’s most notable projects is the Olivetti Museum on Piazza San Marco, a little jewel of an interior. If you go there, which I highly recommend, beware the place will most likely be overrun by architects and students from all over the world who will be worshipping at the Scarpa alter while keenly capturing observations in their sketchbooks.
Dana wears the Emery Top (Coming Soon) and Kline Pant
Vino Vero for a tiny, natural wine place that’s a total vibe.
Bar Alla Toletta for a delicious and inexpensive quick bite, they make these sort of mini sandwiches, so you can try lots of yummy flavours.
Nevodi for a classic, brick-lined restaurant with pizza, pasta & seafood (and, according to a friend who we dined there with, “the best seafood lasagne ever”). This place is also very close to Giardini, so it’s perfect after visiting the Biennale.
Frary’s for fantastic Arabic and Greek, because I don’t know about you, but I crave food variety so much when travelling.
Cantine del Vino già Schiavi for the best cicchetti (a typical Venetian snack), or Cantina Do Mori — the legendary local hangout from 1462, which has a lively atmosphere and no tables.
By the way, this is not a bar or restaurant tip, but I highly recommend downloading the Chebateo app, which was developed by students to instantly help you find boat stops and connections for the vaporetto (Venetian public waterbus). There are 19 scheduled lines that serve the city, including travel between Venice and nearby islands like Murano, Burano, and Lido.
Dana wears the Davey Top
I've given my travel wardrobe a fair bit of thought over the years, as I find the better I’m dressed, the better my trip goes. Call me superficial, but it's true! I spent just over a week in Milan before going to Venice, so I packed for both trips together. I took pants, skirts, tops, dresses, and outerwear in a range of colours and textures, and I tend to loosely plan outfits for each day to ensure I don’t overpack.
My vibe for this trip was put together but effortless, as I don't like to feel like I have to try too hard when I’m travelling. For me, it's essential to be comfortable and feel like myself, with outfits that don’t need ironing, and to be able to handle meetings, visits to galleries, sightseeing, or walking around the city. My days and nights are long, so the clothes have to work hard and be adaptable. With so much walking, I only wear sneakers, so this is a significant consideration for the clothes I choose to take.
This is what I love so much about Lee Mathews — the clothes can be worn in many different ways. And even when I wear something seemingly basic from the collection, the little details, the silhouettes, or the way the fabric and the clothes hug the body always make me feel like a million bucks. They make for the perfect wardrobe for any occasion, travel included.
Dana wears the Emery Top (Coming Soon) and the Kline Pant
That would have to be our private visit to the knockout 15th-century Palazzo Giustinian Lolin, the new Vincenzo De Cotiis Foundation, which opened its doors during the inauguration of the Biennale. Milan-based architect and designer Vincenzo De Cotiis and his wife, Claudia Rose, have meticulously restored the palazzo as their home away from home. The space also houses many of De Cotiis’ one-off mind-blowing collectible furniture and art pieces, as well as limited and open-edition furniture and functional art. The supreme level of singular beauty and the tension between history and modernity in this place is unmatched. Moreover, the baroque palazzo sits on the banks of the Grand Canal (of course!) with a seriously dreamy view. The interior is animated with charming reflections of light bouncing off the water and onto the walls and floors of the home. This atmosphere creates an immediate connection to the city's essence and provides a window into its intriguing and storied past. It’s an experience I’ll never forget.
The thing about Venice is that, no matter where you go, if you take some time to dig a little under the surface, you will discover a place that packs so much into a relatively compact scale. There’s a real romance in Venice rarely found in other cities — it will make you fall in love with the place and yourself, and perhaps your lover, all over again.
Dana Tomic Hughes @dana.tomic.hughes
@yellowtrace
Photography Nick Hughes/Yellowtrace
Returning to Venice after a 17-year hiatus felt like a journey through time, both for the city and for her own life. A frequent traveler to Italy for work, Dana was struck by how much had changed since her last visit: she had married, shifted careers, started a business, and had two children. In this conversation, Dana shares her reflections on the city, musing on the experiences that capture its essence and her must-see galleries, bars and restaurants.
Dana wears the Davey Top
I’ve been travelling to Italy annually for work for over a decade, but this was only my second time in Venice. The last time was 17 years ago, and it feels like a lifetime has passed between now and then — I got married, shifted careers, started a business, and had two children. You know, I kind of grew up a little… I love how going back to the place you’ve been before becomes a reference point for how much you’ve changed, not to mention how much a place you’re visiting has changed and, in fact, how much the whole world has changed, too. But perhaps I’m going a little too deep with all this.
We spent about a day and a half exploring Bennale’s must-see flagship venues — Arsenale and Giardini.
Arsenale is an industrial complex of former shipyards with too much incredible art to mention here. Still, some of my favourites included Bouchra Khalili’s The Mapping Journey Project, Lina Bo Bardi-designed displays with art canvases suspended in clear glass, interwoven LED mesh screen video sculptures by WangShui and Latvian artist Amanda Ziemele’s joyous installation of colourful 3D canvases presented as sculptures in space.
Giardini is as much of an architectural experience as it is an art one, with 30 architecturally designed pavilions of various countries, each producing shows as their national representation.
It was incredible to be in Venice the first time the Australian National Pavilion took out the top gong with the Golden Lion award for the Kith and Kin installation by Archie Moore, curated by Ellie Buttrose. Archie spent months chalking his family tree on the walls and ceilings of the pavilion, charting his Kamilaroi and Bigambul relations over 65,000 years of history. A central table in the room depicted records of Aboriginal people’s deaths in custody, with a black reflective pond deliberately separating the viewer and the, symbolising the gap between information and action. I cannot overstate how deeply moved and emotional I felt during our visit. This was also one national pavilion that made our 12-year-old son Luka pause and ask many questions (which is a pretty big deal for a tween boy). Kith and Kin will tour Australia after the Venice Biennale, staring at Brisbane’s GOMA, so please keep an eye out. This is genuinely one exhibition every Australian should see.
My friends also raved about Pierre Huyghe’s Liminal exhibition at Punta della Dogana. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see it myself, as the gallery was closed the day we visited (side note: many cultural venues close in Venice on Mondays and/ or Tuesdays, so make sure you look this up to avoid disappointment).
Anywhere where the hordes of tourists aren’t. Argh! Seriously, Venice has got to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world, but sadly, this means it’s absolutely overrun by holidaymakers. The irony of complaining about this as a non-Venice local isn’t lost on me!
Having said this, what’s truly magical about Venice is that, outside of classic sightseeing (which you simply have to do), the city is so utterly picturesque that following your intuition to wander and get lost in the narrow streets is a sheer joy.
There are, of course, countless remarkable art galleries. I loved visiting the museum gallery Gallerie dell'Accademia, which was recently renovated. The Peggy Guggenheim’s private collection of who’s-who-in-contemporary-art-zoo will make you weep. Palazzo Grassi on the Grand Canal, with its Venetian Classical style remodelled by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, is another must-visit.
Then there are buildings by Venice-born Carlo Scarpa, who is arguably one of the most revered architects of his time (even if you may not be an archi-nerd like me but you’re still someone who actively observes design and architecture, you would’ve quite likely come across his very distinctive visual language or its many contemporary derivatives.) One of Scarpa’s most notable projects is the Olivetti Museum on Piazza San Marco, a little jewel of an interior. If you go there, which I highly recommend, beware the place will most likely be overrun by architects and students from all over the world who will be worshipping at the Scarpa alter while keenly capturing observations in their sketchbooks.
Dana wears the Emery Top (Coming Soon) and Kline Pant
Vino Vero for a tiny, natural wine place that’s a total vibe.
Bar Alla Toletta for a delicious and inexpensive quick bite, they make these sort of mini sandwiches, so you can try lots of yummy flavours.
Nevodi for a classic, brick-lined restaurant with pizza, pasta & seafood (and, according to a friend who we dined there with, “the best seafood lasagne ever”). This place is also very close to Giardini, so it’s perfect after visiting the Biennale.
Frary’s for fantastic Arabic and Greek, because I don’t know about you, but I crave food variety so much when travelling.
Cantine del Vino già Schiavi for the best cicchetti (a typical Venetian snack), or Cantina Do Mori — the legendary local hangout from 1462, which has a lively atmosphere and no tables.
By the way, this is not a bar or restaurant tip, but I highly recommend downloading the Chebateo app, which was developed by students to instantly help you find boat stops and connections for the vaporetto (Venetian public waterbus). There are 19 scheduled lines that serve the city, including travel between Venice and nearby islands like Murano, Burano, and Lido.
Dana wears the Davey Top
I've given my travel wardrobe a fair bit of thought over the years, as I find the better I’m dressed, the better my trip goes. Call me superficial, but it's true! I spent just over a week in Milan before going to Venice, so I packed for both trips together. I took pants, skirts, tops, dresses, and outerwear in a range of colours and textures, and I tend to loosely plan outfits for each day to ensure I don’t overpack.
My vibe for this trip was put together but effortless, as I don't like to feel like I have to try too hard when I’m travelling. For me, it's essential to be comfortable and feel like myself, with outfits that don’t need ironing, and to be able to handle meetings, visits to galleries, sightseeing, or walking around the city. My days and nights are long, so the clothes have to work hard and be adaptable. With so much walking, I only wear sneakers, so this is a significant consideration for the clothes I choose to take.
This is what I love so much about Lee Mathews — the clothes can be worn in many different ways. And even when I wear something seemingly basic from the collection, the little details, the silhouettes, or the way the fabric and the clothes hug the body always make me feel like a million bucks. They make for the perfect wardrobe for any occasion, travel included.
Dana wears the Emery Top (Coming Soon) and the Kline Pant
That would have to be our private visit to the knockout 15th-century Palazzo Giustinian Lolin, the new Vincenzo De Cotiis Foundation, which opened its doors during the inauguration of the Biennale. Milan-based architect and designer Vincenzo De Cotiis and his wife, Claudia Rose, have meticulously restored the palazzo as their home away from home. The space also houses many of De Cotiis’ one-off mind-blowing collectible furniture and art pieces, as well as limited and open-edition furniture and functional art. The supreme level of singular beauty and the tension between history and modernity in this place is unmatched. Moreover, the baroque palazzo sits on the banks of the Grand Canal (of course!) with a seriously dreamy view. The interior is animated with charming reflections of light bouncing off the water and onto the walls and floors of the home. This atmosphere creates an immediate connection to the city's essence and provides a window into its intriguing and storied past. It’s an experience I’ll never forget.
The thing about Venice is that, no matter where you go, if you take some time to dig a little under the surface, you will discover a place that packs so much into a relatively compact scale. There’s a real romance in Venice rarely found in other cities — it will make you fall in love with the place and yourself, and perhaps your lover, all over again.
Dana Tomic Hughes @dana.tomic.hughes
@yellowtrace
Photography Nick Hughes/Yellowtrace